Banarasi to Patan Patola: The Ultimate Guide to 22 Pure Silk Sarees of India
Silk sarees from India aren’t just outfits—they’re heritage you can wear. But if you’re shopping online (or even in-store), it’s easy to get confused between pure silk, blends, and powerloom lookalikes.
This guide covers 23 famous silk sarees, with:
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3–4 line description
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How to identify (quick checks)
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Pure silk material used
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Origin / where it comes from
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Typical weight (6 yards)
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Typical price range for pure-silk variants
Note: Prices and weights vary based on weave density, zari quality, motif coverage, loom type, and artisan time.
1) Banarasi Buti Silk Saree (Banarasi Booti)
What it is: A classic Banarasi with small scattered motifs (butis) across the body and a richer border/pallu. It’s festive but not as “full coverage” as a jaal. Great for weddings, pujas, and formal evenings.
How to identify: Look for neat repeating butis, a detailed pallu, and a slightly “handmade” rhythm in weave (handloom isn’t perfectly uniform like powerloom).
Pure silk material: Usually Katan (mulberry silk) base with zari work.
Origin: Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh.
Typical weight: ~550–900 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹12,000–₹1,00,000+
2) Satin Tanchoi Silk Saree
What it is: Tanchoi is known for dense all-over patterns created through multiple wefts—satin tanchoi adds a smoother, glossier base and fluid drape. The design looks rich even without heavy zari.
How to identify: Dense surface patterning with a smooth sheen; the back is usually tidy (no messy long floats).
Pure silk material: Mulberry silk satin base (pure silk variants).
Origin: Commonly Banarasi weaving clusters (Varanasi).
Typical weight: ~450–800 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹28,000–₹60,000+
3) Do-Dama Tanchoi
What it is: A Tanchoi style often used to describe a denser, more structured Tanchoi weave with heavier visual impact. It’s for buyers who want Tanchoi intricacy but a slightly more substantial fall.
How to identify: All-over Tanchoi patterning that appears more packed/structured; richer handfeel than very light Tanchoi.
Pure silk material: Mulberry silk (often satin-silk base) + optional zari accents.
Origin: Varanasi (Banarasi).
Typical weight: ~500–850 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹30,000–₹80,000+
4) Banarasi Jangla Saree
What it is: “Jangla” typically refers to an ornate jaal (net-like) spread—florals and vines cover the body for a grand, bridal look. It’s one of the most opulent Banarasi styles.
How to identify: Full-body jaal (not scattered), rich border, and heavy pallu detailing.
Pure silk material: Often Katan mulberry silk with zari.
Origin: Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh.
Typical weight: ~700–1,050 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹25,000–₹2,00,000+
5) Kadhua & Phekwa (Banarasi Weaving Techniques)
What it is: These are weaving techniques, not separate saree types. Kadhua weaves motifs individually (more premium, crisp motifs). Phekwa “throws” design wefts (often faster and sometimes lighter).
How to identify: Kadhua motifs usually look more defined and structured; Phekwa can look flatter depending on density.
Pure silk material: Katan mulberry silk base + zari.
Origin: Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh.
Typical weight: Phekwa ~550–850 g | Kadhua ~650–1,050 g
Typical pure-silk price: Phekwa ~₹15,000–₹80,000 | Kadhua ~₹25,000–₹2,00,000+
6) Kanchipuram (Kanjeevaram) Silk Saree
What it is: The queen of South Indian bridal silks—thick mulberry silk, bold colors, temple motifs, and rich zari borders. The structure is firm and heirloom-grade.
How to identify: Heavier feel, crisp drape, bold contrast borders, and rich zari work. Authentic pieces usually come with reliable sourcing.
Pure silk material: Pure mulberry silk with zari (varies by grade).
Origin: Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu.
Typical weight: ~640–1,100 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹12,000–₹4,00,000+
7) Uppada Jamdani
What it is: Known for being ultra-lightweight yet festive. Jamdani motifs look like they’re delicately “inlaid” into the fabric—perfect for long events because it doesn’t feel heavy.
How to identify: Light, airy drape; motifs are woven-in (not printed), often appearing like floating patterns.
Pure silk material: Silk base with motif weaving (often with zari highlights).
Origin: Uppada (Andhra Pradesh).
Typical weight: ~400–550 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹8,000–₹50,000+
8) Pochampally Ikat Silk Saree
What it is: Famous for bold geometry created through ikat resist-dyeing—the design is dyed into yarns before weaving. It’s modern, bright, and unmistakably Indian.
How to identify: Ikat patterns have slightly feathered edges (not razor-sharp like prints). Colors look “built into” the weave.
Pure silk material: Pure silk variants (also available in cotton).
Origin: Bhoodan Pochampally, Telangana.
Typical weight: ~550–750 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹10,000–₹25,000+
9) Molakalmuru Silk
What it is: A Karnataka ceremonial silk known for strong borders and traditional motifs. It has a classic South-Indian presence—structured, festive, and timeless.
How to identify: Pronounced border + pallu, traditional motif language; handloom versions show depth in weave.
Pure silk material: Mulberry silk (pure variants).
Origin: Molakalmuru (Karnataka).
Typical weight: ~450–800 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹7,000–₹35,000+
10) Ilkal Silk Saree
What it is: A North Karnataka weave recognized for its distinct pallu/border structure and earthy elegance. Pure-silk Ilkals are richer and heavier than silk-cotton versions.
How to identify: Traditional Ilkal structure with a firm handloom texture; pure silk feels richer and more weighty.
Pure silk material: 100% silk in pure variants.
Origin: Ilkal, Karnataka.
Typical weight: ~650–900 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹9,000–₹25,000+
11) Paithani Silk Saree
What it is: Maharashtra’s jewel—luxurious silk with zari borders and iconic pallus featuring peacocks, lotuses, and intricate tapestry-like weaving. Often collected as a family heirloom.
How to identify: Signature Paithani pallu motifs and rich zari work; the weave feels premium and “art-like.”
Pure silk material: Silk + zari (zari grade varies).
Origin: Paithan/Yeola, Maharashtra.
Typical weight: ~650–950 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹25,000–₹2,50,000+
12) Chanderi Silk
What it is: Light, sheer, graceful—Chanderi is elegance without heaviness. It’s perfect for daytime weddings, office festive, and summer occasions.
How to identify: Slightly transparent look, fine weave, delicate motifs, soft sheen.
Pure silk material: Pure silk variants exist (many market pieces are silk-cotton blends—always check).
Origin: Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh.
Typical weight: ~250–350 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹5,000–₹20,000+
13) Kosa Silk Saree (Tussar / Wild Silk)
What it is: Kosa is a prized wild silk with a natural texture and earthy sheen—less glossy than mulberry silk, but deeply luxurious. It’s “quiet luxury” with an organic feel.
How to identify: Slightly textured/slubby handfeel, natural glow (not mirror shine).
Pure silk material: Kosa (tussar/wild silk).
Origin: Central India (notably Chhattisgarh belt).
Typical weight: ~450–650 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹15,000–₹25,000+
14) Ashavali (Ashaavali) Tanchoi Silk
What it is: Rooted in Gujarat’s brocade heritage, Ashavali styles are ornate and royal. In Tanchoi styling, you’ll see dense patterning and heritage motifs—premium and niche.
How to identify: Heavy brocade look with heritage motifs; usually feels rich and ceremonial.
Pure silk material: Often pure silk (premium katan variants exist).
Origin: Ahmedabad/Gujarat tradition.
Typical weight: ~600–900 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹35,000–₹1,20,000+
15) Baluchari Silk
What it is: West Bengal’s storytelling saree—famous for figurative, panel-like pallus with scenes and motifs. It’s wearable art with cultural depth.
How to identify: Pallu contains narrative panels/figures rather than only florals.
Pure silk material: Silk base (often with resham/zari detailing).
Origin: West Bengal (Murshidabad region association).
Typical weight: ~300–450 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹10,000–₹35,000+
16) Khandua Pata
What it is: A revered Odisha saree linked with temple culture and ceremonial wear. Often features bandha/ikat logic with rich pallus and traditional motifs.
How to identify: Woven bandha patterns (not print), temple-linked aesthetics.
Pure silk material: Pure silk variants exist (also available in cotton).
Origin: Odisha.
Typical weight: ~500–700 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹8,000–₹25,000+
17) Assam Silk (Muga / Pat / Eri)
What it is: Assam is home to multiple iconic silks—Muga (natural golden), Pat (mulberry), and Eri (soft, often linked with peace silk). Muga is the most premium and instantly recognizable.
How to identify: Muga has a natural golden tone (not metallic). The fabric looks rich but organic.
Pure silk material: Muga, Pat, or Eri silk.
Origin: Assam.
Typical weight: ~600–900 g
Typical pure-silk price: Muga often ~₹85,000–₹5,00,000 (premium), Pat/Eri usually lower.
18) Dharmavaram Silk
What it is: Known for wide borders and heavy pallus—made for grand ceremonies. It’s structured and rich, with strong zari presence in premium variants.
How to identify: Broad borders, heavy pallu, thick festive handfeel. Verify “pure” vs “semi-pattu” carefully.
Pure silk material: Mulberry silk in pure variants.
Origin: Dharmavaram, Andhra Pradesh.
Typical weight: ~780–1,100 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹20,000–₹1,50,000+
19) Sambalpuri Silk
What it is: Odisha’s bandha/ikat masterpiece—designs appear almost reversible because the pattern is dyed into yarns. Bold geometry, strong cultural identity, and high wearability.
How to identify: Ikat patterns that appear on both sides; woven clarity, not print.
Pure silk material: Pure mulberry silk variants.
Origin: Odisha (Sambalpur belt).
Typical weight: ~500–800 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹8,000–₹35,000+
20) Bhagalpuri Silk (Often Tussar)
What it is: Bhagalpur is closely associated with tussar/desi silk—textured, breathable, and elegant in a grounded way. Great for day functions, office festive, and minimal-zari lovers.
How to identify: Slightly slubby texture, organic sheen, lighter feel than bridal mulberry silks.
Pure silk material: Tussar / raw silk.
Origin: Bhagalpur, Bihar.
Typical weight: ~420–550 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹4,000–₹20,000+
21) Ahimsa Silk (Peace Silk)
What it is: Marketed as a more ethically framed silk (often associated with Eri silk), with a soft, warm, less glossy finish. It feels “textile-luxury” rather than shiny bridal silk.
How to identify: Matte-to-soft sheen (not glossy), warmer handfeel; check for credible seller material mention (Eri/Peace silk).
Pure silk material: Often Eri silk (peace silk).
Origin: Commonly from Northeast India belts (sold via specialty channels).
Typical weight: ~500–750 g
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹12,000–₹40,000+
22) Patan Patola (Double Ikat Silk Saree)
What it is: Patan Patola is one of India’s most prestigious sarees, famous for double ikat—both warp and weft threads are resist-dyed so the design emerges perfectly during weaving. The patterns (often geometric grids, flowers, elephants, parrots) look incredibly crisp and “mirror-aligned,” giving it a jewel-like symmetry. It’s a true heirloom weave and usually takes months to complete.
How to identify: The biggest giveaway is near-identical clarity on both sides and pin-sharp alignment where motifs meet at the borders and across the body (prints won’t match like this). Look for a very “mathematical” precision in repeats, and ask for weave provenance because imitation “patola-style” is common.
Pure silk material: Traditionally pure mulberry silk (fine, strong yarn) with natural dye traditions in many authentic pieces.
Origin: Patan, Gujarat (the original Patola weaving center).
Typical weight: ~650–950 g (depends on weave density and zari/extra detailing, if any).
Typical pure-silk price: ~₹1,50,000–₹10,00,000+ (authentic Patan double ikat sits at the top end of Indian sarees).
23) Mysore Silk Saree
What it is:
Mysore Silk Sarees are celebrated for their clean elegance, smooth finish, and understated luxury. Unlike heavily brocaded silks, Mysore silk focuses on purity of silk, rich solid colours, and graceful zari borders, making it timeless and versatile. It is often chosen for weddings, formal occasions, and dignified everyday luxury.
The story behind it:
Born under royal patronage, Mysore silk has a legacy closely associated with the Kingdom of Mysore and later institutionalized through Karnataka’s silk industry. These sarees represent a philosophy of refinement—where quality of silk matters more than excess ornamentation. A true Mysore silk saree feels regal not because it is loud, but because it is perfectly balanced.
How to identify:
Authentic Mysore silk has a distinctly smooth, fluid drape with a rich but non-flashy sheen. The borders are usually zari-woven and sharp, while the body remains uncluttered. When held, it feels heavier than synthetic lookalikes and falls cleanly without stiffness.
Pure silk material:
Made from 100% pure mulberry silk, traditionally woven with real zari (silver zari plated with gold) in premium variants. Reputed Mysore silks are known for strict silk purity standards.
Origin:
Mysuru (Mysore), Karnataka, with weaving and finishing supported by Karnataka’s historic silk ecosystem.
Typical weight (6 yards):
~450–650 g (lighter than Kanchipuram, heavier than Chanderi)
Typical pure-silk price range:
~₹15,000–₹45,000+
(Prices rise with zari purity, colour depth, and weaving finesse)
Every silk saree featured in this guide is more than fabric—it is months of human skill, generations of inherited knowledge, and a living tradition woven thread by thread across India’s loom clusters. From the heavy, architectural grandeur of Kanchipuram silks to the feather-light elegance of Uppada Jamdani, from the narrative pallus of Baluchari to the mathematically precise beauty of Patan Patola, each saree carries the weight of its origin—both literally and culturally.
Authentic silk has a presence you can feel. The weight of a true mulberry silk saree, the gentle firmness of real zari, the way a handloom weave falls and settles on the body—these are details that cannot be replicated by blends or mass production. A genuine Paithani or Banarasi does not just drape; it commands space, ages gracefully, and often becomes an heirloom passed across generations.
At Silkviz, we curate only verified, region-authentic silk sarees, sourced directly from trusted weaving families and heritage clusters. Every piece is selected for material integrity, weave authenticity, and cultural accuracy—so when you choose a silk from Silkviz, you are not just buying a saree, you are preserving a craft.
Explore more at https://www.silkviz.com/ inside our Pure Silk Sarees section.
